This day dress came into the John Bright Collection as having belonged to Queen Mary, Consort to King George V and grandmother to Elizabeth II. As it does not have the provenance of the other gowns worn by Queen Mary that once belonged to the Theatrical Ladies’ Guild (see Related Items) this cannot be verified. Nevertheless, it shares characteristics with them: the very high quality of its workmanship, particularly in the series of asymmetrical pintucked panels that scarcely break the rhythm of the fabric’s pattern; the subtle shaping of the back panelling to follow the line of the body; the almost hidden asymmetrical fastening; the sturdily structured underbodice of cream taffeta and the black crepe de chine skirt lining. The very small thread covered buttons, known as Dorset buttons, at the wrists also fasten a pair of Queen Mary’s sleeves from the Theatrical Ladies’ Guild, and the very long narrow pocket inserted vertically into the right side of the skirt (thought to have been used for her lorgnette) can be found in all her other gowns in our collection.

The heavy black silk of the dress is woven with tiny off-white squares. It has been ingeniously reversed to form a contrasting back to the inverted pleat on the front of the skirt, skilfully cut with regard to the placing of the small motifs. It is possible that the dress was worn for half mourning when the severity of black clothes could be relieved with white.